Tuesday 27 September 2016

Vladivostok

September 12 - 18, 2016

After our “wild” night at Zuma Karaoke, Monday it was time to get back to work. The day started with a breakfast meeting for the Canadian and US Delegations. Wendy had offered to pick me up a few things in Canada so I had a care package of KD, cold meds and ingredients to make the promised chocolate chip cookies for Jason! Then it was time to put together the gift bags for our Russian hosts before heading out for a meeting with Canada’s Honorary Consul in Vladivostok, Mrs. Tatiana Demenok. We were treating her to lunch at Zuma (hopefully not in the Karaoke Bar!).  I knew that name was familiar. As Tatiana told us all about Vladivostok, we shared a lovely lunch topped off with a fantastic dessert platter.

Dessert ...
Then we were off for a quick tour of the city including a trip across one of the newer bridges to Russky Island to check out the University. Since we are scheduled to go to Russky Island (and possibly the new world-class aquarium) later in the week with our Russian hosts, Tatiana decides that a trip to the beach is a better idea. I am trying unsuccessfully to stay alert in the warm car but the seven-hour time difference is still kicking my butt so I nod off now and then. Luckily Diana and Wendy have more stamina and are carrying the conversation as I doze!

Shamora Beach
The beach is quite fabulous and well developed with cottages for rent of various sizes and shapes and a range of restaurants as well. We grab a nice cup of tea and then head back to the hotel. There is time for a quick nap before we meet the gang to decide dinner plans for tonight so all is good.

We head back down the hill toward a Georgian restaurant called Два грузина (Two Georgians) that is recommended by the hotel staff. We decided to make a reservation so we would be expected to avoid the excitement of last night!

Dinner is great with the usual Khachapuri followed by some lovely grilled shasliks and a salad. Georgia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world; producing wine for 8,000 years so decided it was time to try some Georgian wine. The bottle of Saperavi I shared with Hala was quite tasty so I can add Georgian wines to the list of things I like in Russia.

Back to the hotel for an early night as we will meet our Russian hosts tomorrow and the schedule includes a group dinner so it’s going to be a long day! We are met at the hotel by two members of the Russian delegation that have flown in from Moscow and picked up at the hotel by a beige Hyundai bus with cheery gingham trim. The meeting is held at the All-Russian Center of Plant Quarantine and there are a number of Russian colleagues from both agriculture and forestry departments to greet us.

Our discussions are facilitated by two translators who help to bridge the language gap. The discussions were productive and informative as we learned about the programs for monitoring and risk mitigation, as well as the entry requirements for North America. The day was punctuated by great quantities of food with breaks that featured everything from caviar to local bird’s milk chocolate and a rather too substantial lunch. We exchanged gifts before heading off; our Russian hosts had gifted each of us a beautiful tabletop book that weighs about 5 kilos. Luckily, I have a single flight and some room in my luggage so I can bring it home with me. Not sure all the rest of the books were as lucky.

After the formal meeting closed around 5:00, we boarded the bus and headed to Okhotnyy Dvor (Hunting Yard) for dinner. Okhotnyy Dvor is decorated like a hunting lodge with “trophies” hanging everywhere on the walls but there is also a lot of bling so it’s a bit of an interesting contradiction. 

Okhotnyy Dvor
 
The Russians are fantastic hosts and wave after wave of great food arrives at our table; salads, meat, bread, vegetables and potatoes. The highlights, which are served much too late to be enjoyed, are the shashlik platters – one highlighting the sea (scallops, squid, cuttlefish, and shrimp) and the other the land (pork, lamb, chicken, and beef). The table is laden with food and the inevitable bottles of vodka, wine and pitchers of Морс (Mors) a traditional Russian drink made of fresh berries, sugar, and water.

The Gang!

The evening is very enjoyable and over too soon but tomorrow we are back at it so we hop the bus back to our hotel and head up to the rooftop bar for a nightcap or two! I made the mistake of drinking some bottled water at the bar in between vodka shots – the water is almost twice the cost of the vodka. Only in Russia!

Wednesday morning is a bit drizzly and we are headed to the port for an inspection of the traps used to estimate moth populations. Sadly for the experts, there were no moths in the traps or anywhere to be seen. Next stop is a small boat for a “cruise” around the harbour before heading to Russky Island. One of our hosts finds a bottle of vodka and some snacks - the Russian equivalent of hair of the dog – опохмелка. Most folks were pretty restrained the evening before but a chut chut of vodka doesn’t go astray!

Vladivostok Harbour

The morning after the night before ...
Back on land, we head to one of the cafeteria style restaurants for lunch before our trip to Russky Island and the recently opened Primorsky Aquarium. The aquarium features exhibits, educational programs, marine mammal shows, beautiful parks and waterfalls, shops and cafes, as well as research laboratories. We didn’t find Nemo or Dory but there were lots of other sea, river and lake life!


The Canadian Delegation
Cool Sea Creatures
Pushing my luck!
Lounging fish ...
Fun sea life!
Everyone is a bit tired so we opt for Korean food in the hotel’s restaurant and then it’s off to catch some zzzs as we are headed out to Nakhodka tomorrow for port and ship inspections and it’s going to be a very long day!

The little bus that could is good for short rides around Vladivostok but it is a bit crowded for the four-hour jaunt to Nakhodka! At the halfway point, we stop at the rest stop for a pee break, snacks and a stretch. The rest stop has a range of services including a few older ladies selling their delicacies. Sadly the toilet is a “squat” but when you have to go you have to go! One of our Russian hosts buys us all a cob of corn to nibble on.

Rest stop
Where's the throne?
After a quick stop in the woods on the outskirts of town to check out some moth traps, we arrive in Nakhodka around 12:30 for lunch. Official travel is not good for the waistline! The lunch is a pre-set menu and very tasty so we are well-fueled for the afternoon’s activities. The restaurant is selling its homemade Хреновуха (horseradish vodka) so I pick up a bottle to make Bloody Caesars with when my sea shipment arrives.
 
(Empty) moth traps!
Horseradish vodka
Back on the bus for a quick drive to the port where all the traps are again empty. Next stop is a small “tug” to transport us to the ship where a crew of Russians is conducting their inspection to confirm there are no moth eggs on the ships that are headed toward North America. 

Russian inspector at work
Getting on and off the ship is a bit dicey but not as scary as I had feared! The inspectors are almost finished their work when we arrive so we watch them complete the final stages before heading back to shore. It’s about 4:30 so there is a chance we will be back at the hotel before midnight. But no there are activities including a dinner at 6:00 planned.

Onion domes in Nadhodka
The foreign delegations request a lighter dinner and are assured that we will have a small snack and head back, lol! When we arrive at the Penthouse Restaurant, a trio of nice salads, some bread and salmon await us and we think that will be our light snack. Not so! Very soon, the parade of food begins with seafood platters, platters laden with all manner of meat, roasted vegetables, fresh vegetables, Khachapuri, fried cauliflower arriving in one-minute intervals until to table is full and food has to be stacked on the arms of the chairs we are sitting in. At first, we try to politely try a bit from each plate but it is impossible!

Seafood Platter
UNCLE!!
Fully stuffed, we board the bus around 8:00 for the long drive home. When we roll in at midnight, there is no interest in nightcaps so that’s a wrap for the day.

It’s Friday and our last day of meetings starts a bit later in recognition of the long day yesterday. More interesting discussions and we wrapped up early in the afternoon. The Canadian and US delegations decided to treat our Russian hosts to lunch as they had been really kind and generous and we wanted to reciprocate. We ended up at Syndicate; an American-style steakhouse.  The restaurant design captures the spirit of 1920s-30s America, the time of Prohibition with photos of gangsters, musicians and actors lining the walls. We had a businessman’s lunch washed down with mors and some chut chut shots of vodka before we bid adieu to the local staff.



On our way back to the hotel, we made several diversions to see the sights and also to buy some souvenirs of Vladivostok to take home. First stop was to pick up some of the local chocolate птичье молоко that we had enjoyed during our meeting breaks.

Vladivostok is the home port of the Russian Pacific Fleet and the largest Russian port on the Pacific Ocean so next up was a trip to the Army Surplus Store where you can pick up all things Russian Navy (uniforms, insignias, etc.). While there, many folks bought one of the iconic striped shirts (telnyashka) worn by the Russian Navy since the 19th century.

Next stop was the lookout where you can find a statue of the inventors of the Cyrillic language, Saints Cyril and Methodius and a large souvenir shop built into the side of the hill selling all manner of Russian souvenirs.  



Saints Cyril and Methodius
The "Girl" Bridge
The last stop (and for some the most popular) was a vodka store to load up on Russian brands that are not available in North America. Back at the hotel, I managed to get all of my treasures packed away before heading to the rooftop restaurant/bar for a few drinks and snacks with the gang. It was bittersweet as we were all going separate ways.

Saturday morning pickup for me was 6:00 am so I was up with the sun only to arrive at the airport and find my flight was delayed by 1.5 hours. Oh well, not much to be done except to settle in and wait. The long flight back was uneventful and Evgeny was waiting for me at the airport when I arrived to take me home. Luckily, the Moscow traffic wasn’t too crazy for a Saturday afternoon and I was home in good time and calling my Mom to wish her a Happy Birthday! Saturday was a lazy day followed by and early night as now my body thinks its seven hours later than it actually is in Moscow. Hello jetlag … I haven’t missed you.

Sunday morning, Eva and I headed off to Gorky Park for some Pho at the open restaurant under the bridge which was sadly closed for the season. Undaunted, we charted a course for the Israeli restaurant that I had tried last month and had a nice brunch. My sea shipment is being delivered tomorrow morning so I spent the rest of the day, clearing space for the multitude of boxes of stuff that I thought I would need. Time will tell if my beautiful, spacious apartment can accommodate all of my treasures!

Sunday 18 September 2016

What's Next?


September 5 – 11

Back home in Canada, the first Monday in September is Labour Day and the last long weekend of the summer. At the Embassy of Canada in Russia, September 5 is just another working day! Staff at the Embassy are granted ten stat holidays – a combination of Russian and Canadian holidays and apparently Labour Day didn’t make the cut.  So off to work I go to regale my colleagues with stories about the wonders of St Petersburg and, of course, get some work done.

Two of the local staff were very helpful with the logistics for out St Petersburg adventure so I drop into the nearby flower show and pick up a couple of thank you bouquets to complement the Krupskaya chocolate that I picked up on the weekend.

The Squirrel!
Krupskaya chocolate – named after Lenin's widow – is closely entwined with the history of St Petersburg and a national favourite. After Nadezhda Konstantinovna Krupskaya died in 1939, Leningrad workers petitioned the powers that be to immortalize her by renaming the local chocolate factory in her honour.  The fanciful chocolate with the squirrel (белка) on the package is a sweet trip down memory lane for many Russians.

Bouquets and chocolate in hand, I head to the Domik to find that one of my helpers is off for a couple of days so my office gets some cheering up and I’ll make another stop for flowers later in the week for Tatyana. I also bought a box of chocolates for the Trade Section so everyone enjoys a sweet start to their day.

Tuesday, after work, I am headed to Bинный дом Каудаль for a wine testing at the invitation of the USDA and the Embassy of the US. Annick and I are off to meet the new Director of the Agricultural Trade Office, David Leishman and trade colleagues from other Embassies. I have carefully selected an outfit and I’m off to the corner beauty salon at lunch for a blow out so I will look my best when at my first official event.

It was an intimate gathering with the agricultural trade folks from the US, Europe, New Zealand and Australia. It was a lovely evening with eight types of wine from New Zealand, Australia, South America and, of course, the US. The wine was great of course and there were some nibbles to make sure we didn’t get too snookered.

It was a great opportunity to make connections with colleagues and I look forward to the chance to set something up in the future. Better still, I am promised an invite to the St Paddy’s Day Bash at the Embassy of Ireland; the best party in the city on my favourite holiday. Doesn’t get any better than that!

Wednesday night, I had invited most of the folks that live in my building for dinner to thank them for their hospitality and generosity.  My next-door neighbours had other plans and two others came down sick before dinner so it was just Eva, Jack and I for dinner in the end.

It was a school night so I had planned a “simple” meal of homemade roasted sweet potato soup, fresh homemade rolls, pork chops, roasted potatoes, carrots finished off with apple crisp. Everything turned out great and the three of us had a nice evening. Craig and Kerry stopped by right in time for dessert after their function. I had leftovers to keep me going for the rest I the week so the dinner was a success.

The rest of the week sped by with last minute preparations for my Saturday departure for Vladivostok for a trilateral Asian Gypsy Moth meeting. I was joining CFIA colleagues from Canada; Wendy Asbil and Diana Mooij, a larger US contingent and our Russian hosts for discussions and inspection visits in (far) eastern Russia.

Friday night, Canada Club and a couple glasses of wine with colleagues before heading home to get packed and ready for Saturday’s flight. You know Russia is big but I didn’t expect an 8.5-hour direct flight was possible within a country. Look out Aeroflot, here I come!


The driver from the Embassy is waiting for me when I head downstairs a few minutes early with my luggage. I have over-packed as usual but a girl needs options and I can check the larger bag and carryon the smaller one.

Saturday Moscow City Day and it’s 869th birthday. Over 1,000 different events and activities including parades, fairs, street entertainments, sports contests and live music concerts are planned.  Luckily, traffic is moving and Evgeny gets me to the airport in plenty of time to catch my flight.

I am flying in Economy Plus for the 8-hour plus flight as there were none of the cheaper economy class tickets available when I booked my tickets a few weeks ago. Aeroflot has modernized it’s fleet and this flight is on a fairly new 777. When I get to my seat there are slippers, an eye mask and a pillow and blanket for our comfort. We are offered water or juice before departure and the menu for dinner looks interesting. Clearly Aeroflot has upped it’s game!

Moscow to Vladivostok
The fight is long and it’s hard to sleep but there are loads of good movies available on the in-seat entertainment system and the food is plentiful and pretty good. Eventually we land in Vladivostok and I am exhausted. Our Russian hosts had arranged for us to be picked up at the Airport so I look for the Gypsy Moth sign and meet Elena, the interpreter hired by the Russians, for the first time. Her husband, Victor, is with her and my luggage and I are quickly put in their SUV for the drive to the hotel.

Sunday morning, I’ve got early check-in set up with the Hyundai Hotel so I bid adieu to Elena and Victor after our 45-minute ride into the city and head to my room to crash. A sleepless night combined with a 7-hour time difference make it easy to sleep for several hours. I am meeting the Canadian girls later for dinner and/or drinks.

Unpacked and showered I head to the lobby and meet the ladies and some of our American colleagues. After a bit, we head out en masse to a Pan-Asian restaurant recommended by the hotel.

Vladivostok is built on a series of hills (like my home town of Halifax) so we head down the hill toward the water. It’s not going to be as much fun walking back up these steep hills but we find the restaurant without any trouble. Zuma’s looks like a great place to eat – with lush beautiful décor. We didn’t think to make a reservation so we are offered seats in the karaoke room and accept.  How bad can it be on a Sunday night?


We follow the hostess through the restaurant to a mirrored wall that slides open as we arrive. On the other side, we are greeted by “guards” and scanned for weapons! What are we getting into here? Our seats are on the left of the stage right up front – yikes! I guess we will have a good view at least.

Some of the Gypsy Moth Crew
The décor is bordello chic and there are a few other patrons in this part of the restaurant including a table of teenage girls who are guzzling shots and belting out Russian songs from the comfort of their table!


LOL, we finally get drinks and take the opportunity to get to know each other between sets. The menu is vast and its hard to make decisions but I opt for a sushi roll replete with seafood and topped with mango and raspberry sauce as an appetizer to be followed by local scallops stir fried with garlic scapes and some steamed rice. Both dishes are quite tasty.

Sushi
I can’t convince anyone to sing with me so after what seemed like an eternity of listening to the progressively drunker girls singing, we head back up to the hotel and the penthouse bar for a few quieter drinks. Can’t stay up too late, as I need to get back into the right time zone soon!
 

Thursday 8 September 2016

St. Petersburg - The Venice of the North!


September 2 - 4, 2016

I have been dreaming about going to St. Petersburg since I arrived in Moscow. Not that Moscow isn’t spectacular – it most certainly is! But, St. Petersburg is different and a new chapter in my Russian adventure so I was very excited that today was the day.

Since I over-packed (surprise surprise) and didn’t want to haul my suitcase up and down stairs in the various metro stations, I told the ladies that I would spring for a car from the Embassy and we could arrive at the station in style. The traffic was very light for a Friday afternoon so we arrived at the station without incident and our Embassy driver escorted us to the correct gate so we wouldn’t get lost in Leningradsky Station, the oldest of three stations on the same block!

Bags screened, we headed for our train and grabbed our assigned seats. The fare includes a 2000 ruble ($40) budget for food and drink that is useful when you are drinking lots of wine. We had a light dinner washed down with copious amounts of passable red wine and still had a few rubles left over for snacks and chocolate for later.

The “fast” train reaches speeds of up to 220 km/hour but the ride is smooth and the four-hour ride flies by and we are “finally” in St. Petersburg. We grabbed a cab from the stand and headed to the hotel. We had secured rooms at the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe http://www.belmond.com/grand-hotel-europe-st-petersburg/?langredirect=true for the weekend at a really good rate. 

The hotel, the oldest in the city, is perfectly located on the famous Nevsky Prospekt and truly Grand! Their smooth check-in process is fueled by glasses of sparkling wine. After a quick trip to our rooms to drop off our stuff, we headed out to explore our new neighbourhood.  

First its Arts Square where a monument to the great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin stands directly in front of the State Russian Museum. Continuing along we are delighted by an older Russian woman with the most amazing voice singing for spare change. 

\
Pushkin
Turning the corner, we see the Church of the Spilled Blood for the first time.  This beautiful church, on the Griboedov Canal, was built on the site where Emperor Alexander II was fatally wounded by an assassin in March 1881 in his memory by his family. Even in a country full of beautiful cathedrals and churches, this church is a wonder! Maybe it is because, the city was designed to be more European with its baroque and neoclassical architecture and this majestic church is a celebration of medieval Russian architecture; reminiscent of St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow. Either way, it is simply awe-inspiring. 

Church of the Spilled Blood
There is a long line of boarded up kiosks along the canal that will no doubt be hawking souvenirs to unsuspecting tourists tomorrow but tonight there are just a few awestruck tourists, some jaded locals and a young man playing a sitar; a perfect counterpoint to the church’s quiet majesty. 


Soon enough we continue on our journey and after some window-shopping, we pop by a Georgian restaurant for a “midnight” snack. We enjoyed the sampling platter and a “loaf” of Khachapuri washed down with a bit more wine before heading back to the hotel.
 
Georgian Sampling Platter
Georgian Cheese Bread - aka Khachapuri  
After a good night’s sleep, we fueled up for the morning at the hotel’s gargantuan buffet whose offerings featured a wide spectrum of food and beverages including the making for a morning mimosa; sparkling wine and orange juice. Full to the point of bursting we headed to an amber store that we had spied on our explorations around the hotel the night before.

Wow! I have never seen so much amber in one place before; there was likely something for everyone and with a very wide range of prices. We browsed through the treasures and baubles for much more than our allotted 30 minutes. 

In addition to the amber necklaces, rings, earrings, dust collectors and art pieces, there was a fur gallery (nope I didn’t buy my hat yet!) and room after room of decorative items including matryoshka dolls – those brightly coloured Russian nesting dolls to choose from. When we hit the exit, none of us had escaped unscathed and I was the owner of a beautiful pair of amber earrings to add to my collection.

My new bling!
We had booked a walking tour for 12:30 (Peter’s Food Tour http://peterswalk.com/food.html) so we needed to get moving if we were going to explore any of the local sights before our next meal. We also needed to burn off some of the calories from our grazing at the breakfast buffet! The siren song of the souvenir shops continued to distract us but we eventually made it to the end of the block and got our first glimpse of the Kazan Cathedral which is dedicated to Our Lady of Kazan.

Kazan Cathedral
Directly opposite the Kazan Cathedral is Singer House (aka Дом книги – House of Books).  The building was once home to the Russian branch of the Singer Sewing Machine Company and is quite spectacular. 

Singer House
We wanted to see the Church of the Spilled Blood in the daylight so walked past the souvenir kiosks with only a few short stops to peruse their wares and were rewarded with this spectacular sight. Sadly, there was no time to go inside and explore as it was time to head back to the hotel to meet our tour guide; Peter, the husband of a friend of one of the locally-engaged staff at our embassy in Moscow.
Church of the Spilled Blood
Peter had a very ambitious agenda for the four hours but we lead him astray and added a few touristy things at the front-end of the tour. We made a quick stop at the Great Gostiny Dvor (Большой Гостиный Двор) – St. Petersburg’s oldest shopping centre and also one of the first shopping malls in the world so peter could show us a good place to buy amber. The elaborately designed mall is over one kilometer long, has two stories and 100’s of shops selling almost anything you want. Heaven or hell? - you be the judge. 

Great Gostiny Dvor
No time for shopping as we head toward five corners square where 4 big streets intersect and make, you guessed it 5 corners! Of course, with three newly arrived Canadians in tow, Peter was continuously being pulled off course to see one thing or another. Our next distraction was the Monument to Catherine the Great.  

The beautiful statue features Catherine surrounded by carved figures of the most prominent individuals of her reign: politicians and poets, military men and courtiers; many of which were her favourites if you know what I mean!  Peter pointed out one of the figures whose likeness was carved on the statue's pedestal; Prince Potemkin’s foot is placed on a turban symbolizing Crimea which he “peacefully” annexed in 1783. 

Catherine the Great and her Peeps!
Back on track, Peter took was leading us gradually toward five corners and the first stop of a culinary nature on the tour, one of only a few farm-to-table restaurants in St. Petersburg. Вкус Есть (Taste to Eat) is a hip spot with interesting decor located on the bank of the Fontanka River http://tastetoeat.tastetoeat.ru/en/


I think it was meant to be a quick stop but one look at the menu had the three of us salivating and we had lunch instead. We started out with a tasting platter, negotiated with some effort by Peter, that featured curls of homemade basturma (thinly sliced beef that is air-dried), a luscious airy chicken liver paté, hearty smoked mackerel paté and fried cheese topped with a beet pickle.  We ordered some extra bread served with beet and sunflower butters just in case… Yummilicious …

Apps!
For our “mains” we all ordered soup. I am still enamoured with borscht as a lover of beets so I selected traditional borscht with beef which was served with sour cream, dill and a couple slices of dark rye slathered with lard. I am salivating just thinking about the food which was fresh, creative, and delicious. Lunch was about $20/person all in and well worth a return visit.



We continued toward our original destination through the hidden “squares” in the heart St. Petersburg where the residents have soccer courts, playgrounds and live out their lives. 



 
Today is the birthday of Sergei Dovlatov – a Russian and American journalist and writer and Peter had gotten wind of some celebrations in his old neighbourhood. Peter described Dovlatov as robust and popular man; the Russian Ernest Hemingway. We appeared to have missed the main celebration but the back alleys were still alive with his fans, quotes and people reading his works aloud. I have added reading one of his books to my long lists of things to do while in Russia. There was even a temporary statue in his honour in front of a local watering hole.  



Now in five corners, we decided that it was time for a pit stop at a new beautifully renovated restaurant with an excellent view of the five corners – Social Club. I was still full from lunch but there is always room for a glass of wine so I enjoyed a glass while the others had desert and coffee. 

Entrance to Social Club
Social Club
I love their wine menu which categorizes their wines by the occasion – Social Wine, After Work Wine, Special Day Wine and Meditation Wine! Eva had a stunning dessert called Ruby Club that was beautifully presented and featured coconut and mango. Peter and Alex had a beautiful parfait with pumpkin, mango and sea buckthorn ice cream. 

Ruby Club
Even though ulitsa Rubinshteyna features >100 restaurants and bars, we all agreed that we had more than enough food for a while and that it was time to walk some of it off. Walking along the bank of the Fontanka River we entered the splendid wrought-iron gates of the Sheremetyev Palace which has a collection of musical instruments from the 19th and 20th centuries. We didn’t have time to go inside but we tried the outside installation where you sit in a number of chairs that represent the various instruments in an orchestra and hear the piece being played from the perspective of the individual instruments. Fascinating and worth a second visit at another time.

Gates to Sheremetyev Palace                

On the other side of the river is the Fabergé Museum; another possibility for future trips but no time today. Continuing along the river, we take a right just before Russia's oldest permanent circus complex, St. Petersburg State Circus and head to our last stop for a quick drink before Peter needs to leave us and start his next tour – Pinch Bar.  




I opted for the pomegranate lemonade with chili which was spicy and refreshing. Need to save some room for wine tonight as we are heading out for dinner at Schengen; a restaurant recommended by a colleague. Not sure the 20,000+ steps we walked today will help to burn off our breakfast let alone the lunch, snacks and drinks!


Booking a private tour for the three of us what a bit of an extravagance but it was great to have the opportunity to set our own pace, chat with a local and have someone who could explain the history to us.

Back to the hotel for an hour to rest and dress for dinner. I made the fatal error of lying down and managed to sleep through my alarm and texts/calls from Eva and Alex! I woke to the sound of Alex knocking on my door after our scheduled meeting time so quickly splashed some water on my face and threw on my dress. Luckily, I managed to get it on right side out!

My late arrival resulted in a bit of a shemozzle finding a cab to get us to the restaurant at a decent price so we bit the bullet and paid $20 to the cab parked in front of the hotel instead of waiting for a cheaper Yandex car! To add insult to injury, the aforementioned and expensive cab dumped us off a block away from our restaurant – asshat!  Oh well, we managed to find Schengen http://schengen.spb.ru/ and were soon entranced by it’s mellow vibe.


As it turns out, Social Club, the Israeli restaurant downstairs and Schengen are all owned by the same family. After procuring a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to start, we ordered some appetizers to share. The chicken liver pate with orange jelly was as light and airy as the fabulous version we had that afternoon and the sweetness of the jelly, while not to everyone’s taste provided an interesting counterpoint. The seared tuna tataki on cucumbers with Asian dressing was a big hit while the Bulgarian vegetable salad with brined cheese was a nice fresh ending.

Chicken liver pate with orange jelly
Tuna tataki
I opted for the lamb pie with eggplant and tomato salad for my main. Eva selected the duck breast and Alex the salmon filet. We shared a bit of our choice with the others at the table and all three would be worth a return visit. A bottle of Chianti provided a nice accompaniment.

 

I opted for raspberry sorbet as a “light” finish to the meal and it didn’t disappoint served on a pillow of meringue. 


If you are ever in St Petersburg, this is a restaurant worth trying. Dinner for three including two bottles of quite drinkable wine was about $150.  Sated we experimented with the Yandex app (Russia’s answer to Uber though they have that as well) and were deposited in front of the hotel for less than 400 rubles ($8)! After a day of walking (and eating) we were all a bit tired and crashed fairly early.

The weather for Sunday was looking less promising so we were looking at inside activities, e.g., touring the Hermitage unless the forecast was wrong. After a smaller but still plenty big breakfast, we hit the streets and as it wasn’t raining decided to head to Saint Isaac's Cathedral. Saint Isaac’s is the largest Russian Orthodox cathedral in the city and apparently and the fourth largest cathedral in the world! Given the number of tour buses lined up and that the rain was holding up for the most part, we decided to skip the inside tour and continue with our meanderings instead.

Saint Isaac's Cathedral


En route to the Neva River, we came across a statue of Peter the Great commissioned by Catherine the Great called the Bronze Horseman. The imposing statue sits on a 1250 km stone called the Thunder Stone; the largest stone ever moved by humans. After taking advantage of the photo op, we started walking toward the Hermitage but we were sidetracked by the offer of a river/canal cruise to see the sights. 

Peter the Great!
Me and Pete!

I was really keen so the ladies obliged and for a measly $8 each (400 rubles) we toured the waterways of St Petersburg. The inclement weather meant that there were less boats on the water (and of course it was early for a Sunday – only noon!). The speakers blasted Russian as we checked out the sights. Next time, I will pay a bit more and go for an English boat tour but it was still a very entertaining 90 minutes with loads of beautiful buildings and the “thrill” of ducking as we went below very low bridges. One needs to pay attention as the bridges come up quite frequently and there is minimal (no) supervision!



Trinity Cathedral


The Red Bridge
It started to rain as the boat was docking so we ducked into The Bridge Bar to get out of the rain and grab some lunch. Shashlik (shish kebobs) with a side of fries, though not up to the gourmet eats of yesterday, filled the gap. We headed out into the day only to find out that the rain had stopped. We were really lucking out with the weather! 

We headed off to Palace Square to get at least of glimpse of some of the beauty there: the amazingly beautiful white-and-azure Winter Palace - former home of Russian tsars, the imposing red granite Alexander Column and the Guards Corps Headquarters.


Winter Palace
Cinderella's carriage
Alexander Column

Guards Corps HQ
A quick look around and then we headed off for some last minute shopping before heading to the hotel to pick up our stuff and head back to the station to catch the train. Now that we have the hang of Yandex, the cab is a mere 400 rubles (less than 1/2 of the cost of picking up a cab from the hotel stand).

The train ride home was not as drenched in wine as the journey there - Sunday is a school night after all.  The return trip was fast and smooth so we were soon back in Moscow. A quick Yandex drive and we were home and getting ready for Monday back at work.

Two action-packed days in a beautiful city! Can't wait to go back ...